VLS' Leftmost cancellation

[admin]

Hello guys. Right now I'm going to share the cancellation system for two dozen/columns plus the variations I found myself using in real strategy play at the table.

First, I will elaborate on the cancellation systems for dozens/columns as I first got to know it before explaining how I modified it to suit my personal way of playing.
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Basic cancellation system for two columns/dozens, as I learned it.

Your objective is to get +1.

You write "1" as the starting point of the series:

1

Place 1 on each Dozen. (Bear in mind we are playing only TWO dozens, so when I say I say "on each dozen" I mean each of the TWO dozens we are playing. It is the same for Columns, I just chose to say dozens).

If you win, you earn +1 and the series end.

If you lose, as you placed 1 unit on each dozen, you add them to the RIGHT of the series, like this:
111

Since this basic cancellation system is based on the Old Labouchere progression, I was told to sum the first and last number on the series and bet the result of the sum.

[1]1[1] = 1 + 1 = 2

This is the next amount to bet. 2 units on each dozen.

On a win, the first and last element are cancelled (erased); the series comes to be again:
1

Since there is only that one item left, next bet is that 1 unit on each dozen. If you win this bet, the series is over: +1 unit profit.

This system as I was taught has a problem: it keeps raising units' amount violently on a consecutive losing streak. Let's analyze:

1
I start betting, 1 on each dozen. Lose.

111

Next bet is the first and last term:
[1]1[1] = 1+1 = 2
I place two units on each dozen and lose. Now series is:
11122

Now next bet is:
[1]112[2] = 1+2 = 3

3 units on each dozen and lose. Series is:
1112233

Next bet:
[1]11223[3] = 1 + 3 = 4

4 units on each dozen and lose. Series ends up being:
[1]1122334[4] = 1+4 = 5

5 units. If I put that on each dozen and lose series get to be:
11122334455

That does climb fast!, I realized it the bad way. I knew the two dozen/columns cancellation system had potential, but something had to be done with it.
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When I thought "what if I simply cancel the two leftmost numbers?" it gave birth to the:

LEFTMOST cancellation system.

Same principle as the original: to make +1 on closed series.

You start with:
1
as a series.

You place 1 on each dozen and win. That's it: +1, end of the series. If you lose you add lost units placed on each dozen to the RIGHT of the series:
111

Now you determine next bet using the sum of the two LEFTMOST numbers:
[1][1]1 = 1+1 = 2

2 units on each dozen for the next bet. (Yep. same as the original).

You win, you are left with a series of:
1
You place 1 on each column. Win and get +1, End of the series.

Now you may be thinking: "Hey vic, that's the same!". Keep on reading.

When I develop a system, I'm always concerned about the "worst case scenario" = if you sit at the table and get a consecutive losing streak from "bet #1".

Now, let's say I sit at the table. Start my series:
1
I place one unit on each dozen and lose:
111
I do the sum of the two LEFTMOST numbers:
[1][1]1 = 1 + 1 = 2

Next bet is 2 units on each dozen and LOSE. Add lost units to the RIGHT of the series:
11122

I follow the same principle: cancel the two leftmost numbers:
[1][1]122 = 1 + 1 = 2

2 units on each dozen AGAIN and LOSE. Add lost units to the RIGHT of the series:
1112222

Same principle: cancel the two leftmost numbers:
[1][1]12222 = 1 + 1 = 2

2 for next bet... Hummm, now we are talking! Using the leftmost cancellation system bets don't raise as explosively as the original version. YEAH! I'll keep using that one!.

So losing scenario as seen with the original system:
11122334455 = -30 units.

Same losing scenario using LEFTMOST cancellation system:
11122222222 = -19 units.

Good, good.
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"How can I make LEFTMOST better?"

When using the original cancellation as well as the leftmost cancellation system you can notice sometimes you bet the sum of two numbers and some times you bet only one "leftover" element:
1 – Lose
111 – Needs two bets to cancel.
1 – One last bet and win

Two bets huh. Coming the next variation which saves yet more units:

"When the number of elements in the series is an ODD number, bet only the 1st LEFTMOST element".

Like this:
1
111 = 3 elements at the series. 3 = ODD number of elements. Bet only the LEFTMOST element.

[1]11 <= Place 1 unit and win.

Series is now:
11 <- Two elements = even number of elements in the series. According to the system, I must bet the two of them:

[1][1] = 1 + 1 = 2 for next bet.

If you win, you cancel the series and that's it.

If you are thinking: – Hey vic, that's the same two bets. No improvements!

Let's look at it closer.

So you sit and start your session. Series is:
1

You place 1 unit on each dozen and lose:
111

Now, 3 elements in the series. 3 = ODD number of elements, so you follow the new rule and cancel only the LEFTMOST one:
[1]11

You place 1 unit on each dozen and lose. As explained, add lost units to the right:
11111

Series is now 5 elements. Odd number again. Apply the same rule:

"ODD number of elements in the series = try to cancel only the LEFTMOST one"

And you do:
[1]1111

1 unit on each dozen, again. And you lose. Add lost units to the RIGHT of the serie.

"ADD to the RIGHT, CANCEL the LEFT".

1111111

A 7-element series. ODD number of elements = Cancel only the Leftmost one:

[1]111111

One unit on each dozen... Lost. Add lost units to the right:
111111111

9 elements. ODD number. By now, I think you already know what to do...
__________________

So, losing scenario as seen with the original system:
11122334455 = -30 units.

Same losing scenario using LEFTMOST cancellation system:
11122222222 = -19 units.

Same losing scenario using LEFTMOST cancellation system + ODD elements = cancel single LEFTMOST number rule:
11111111111 = -11 units.

Visible improvement!
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OK, so I'm a strategy player. I want to "Hold up" the losing times as much as possible, in order to give myself the best shot at preserving my bankroll for the winning times with the least bankroll exposure.

If you are a "Mechanical player" who wants it simple, by all means, stick to the LEFTMOST cancellation system as explained above, with the "ODD number of elements" rule.

Now I will explain the ultimate cancellation system variation. Sensitive to loses, the way I like it and developed. This is pure strategy play, not necessarily representing the most MATH-BASED sense, but the most strategy-play wise.

Same goal: +1 per closed series.

You start writing your series:
1

If you lose you add lost units to the RIGHT:
111

Next is a NO BET.

This is a GOLDEN RULE for this strategy play, shall you intent to play strict with it:
#1) When lost trying to cancel 1 element, next one is "NO BET".

So you hold till a win using "Virtual Play" (Making bets on the outcomes exactly as you would play it for real, you even keep track of them in your winning/losing streaks registry as if you were placed them, but you never place actual chips on it. You repeat this, till you get a win on those non-placed bets, then switch to real play).

Your series is:
111

Now you do the following GOLDEN RULE:
#2) When returning from "NO BET", you only try cancelling 1 element.
Your next bet is:
[1]11

One unit on each dozen. And lose. Add lost units to the right:
11111

Again, you were trying to cancel 1 unit, since you LOST now is a NO BET again.

You wait for a win in "Virtual", and then resume real play.

You are positively trying to protect the most from CONSECUTIVE LOSSES.
No need to "protect" yourself from CONSECUTIVE WINS .

Your current series is:
11111

You are still at the cancel-ONE-item level:
[1]1111

Place 1 unit and you WIN. Series is now:
1111

GOLDEN RULE:
#3) After winning cancelling 1 element, move forward to cancelling two items.

You then proceed to cancel two items:
[1][1]11 = 1+1 = 2

2 units on each dozen and LOST. Add lost units to the RIGHT:
111122

GOLDEN RULE:
#4) After losing cancelling 2 elements, move back to try cancelling one.

[1]11122

So you bet 1 unit and WIN! (A win, that sounded weird!. Why do I place so many loses in my tutorials? Oh wait! I'm trying to teach you real-life situations = how to "hold up" when wins are not coming your way easily).

Remember rule #3, after winning cancelling one element, move to cancel two. Your series is:
11122

Now we will use the two leftmost elements for next bet:
[1][1]122 = 2

Place 2 units on each dozen and WIN. (Don't worry, I will explore the LOSING option right after! These winnings are there for educative purposes . We must explore the possibilities, including the eventual consecutive winnings).

Since you WON, you cancel two elements:
122

Since two consecutive wins happened we *MAY* be in the beginning of a winning streak (even the largest winning streak start with two consecutive wins!), we use the following:

BENDING HUMAN-FACTOR-RELATED RULE:
#5) After winning cancelling 2 elements, *if and only if you see fit*, try cancelling 3
elements at once. (This is the maximum. I *never* try more than three elements at once).

To me, I "see fit" cancelling 3 items when their value is low ( i.e. 1's and 2's... I think twice if it involves 3's and higher).

OK, let's try cancelling those three elements for next bet:
[1][2][2] = 1 + 2 + 2 = 5

5 units on each dozen.

If we win, the series is over. But since this is my tutorial, we LOSE! (Don't you just love when someone explaining a system considers the non-rosy situations , system sellers sound so rosy: "You will always win and win with my system"... well, I'm not a system seller, I sincerely want to teach you what can happen in real life).

[admin]

OK, when you lose trying to cancel 3 elements, you must only add 2 elements to the series, always.

You have two ways to do this:

a) Simply place what you lost at the RIGHT of the series:
12255
b) DISTRIBUTE losing amount among the series, any way you want, but always considering leaving the lower values at the LEFT in order to lose the least in case of a losing streak. As I said, you can distribute ANY WAY YOU WANT:
13344 or 22344, etc.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
To play cancelling like a PRO you need to learn how to distribute, properly. Sometimes I even CONTRACT a series if it is just a bunch of low value items like 1's or 2's in order to need less wins to cancel it (Of course, I suggest you do this only if you are properly capitalized for the session).
For instance: 111111111 => 12222. As long as they remain the same units to cancel, it is 100% valid. This cancellation money management is the most malleable I have seen so far. If you don't feel quite comfortable with next bet you can expand it:
488 => 224444
If you are properly capitalized, I don't recommend expanding the series, but if for some reason you feel you need to, bare in mind you will require more wins.

Anyway, at some moment you must have to place those higher-unit bets which are at the right of the series, but when using this cancelling strategy, since it is sensitive to current winning/losing streak, you are positively placing the "heavy bets" at the most favorable time: WHEN YOU ARE WINNING.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

So, back to our series. We lost trying to cancel 3 elements, which brings us to the next

GOLDEN RULE:
#6) After losing cancelling 3 elements, move back to try cancelling ONE.

I chose to do this distribution:
22344

I will try to cancel only 1 element:
[2]2344

Ok we lost (Lose AGAIN?! %#$# you Victor... –Wait. We still need to learn this last tiny bit of info regarding placing lost units. I promise wins will come at the next paragraphs). What happens now with those units? We will always try to KEEP THE LOWER VALUES AT THE LEFT of our series, preventing a possible losing streak from hurting us the most and depleting  our bankroll easily, we need to make it as hard as possible for the casino to take all of our units, managing our bankroll in a smart way, always trying to keep losing the least in the session's bad moments is KEY to achieve that..

This is the time when we don't use the "Add loses to the right" part, if we were to add the lost units to the right, it would be like this:
2234422

Since we want the lower units to the left, we do it like this:
2222344

OK, since we were cancelling 1 element and lost, we go "virtual" till a win. Then resume real play at 1 element again:
[2]222344

We place 2 units on each dozen and WIN (As promised ). Series is now:
222344

Since we won cancelling 1 element, we do 2 elements now:
[2][2]2344 = 2 + 2 = 4

We place 4 units on each dozen. WIN. Series is now:
2344

Trying to cancel 3 items now would not be advisable:
[2][3][4]4 = Values are high and we will need two bets in order to cancel the serie anyway; besides, in case of losing next bet, we will need to handle a bigger lose. Not worth it. We stick to two elements:

[2][3]44 = 2 + 3 = 5

5 units on next bet. We WIN. (At last we catch the winning streak!). Series is now:
44

Since we are winning, we keep on betting 2 elements:
[4][4] = 4+4 = 8

We place 8 units on each dozen and WIN. End of the series (At last!).
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Well this was quite a ride, wasn't it? In my humble opinion, with a relatively large bankroll, one has a great shot of ending up a winner. With a 2000-unit bankroll + the right betting selection, I have never, ever lost using this. It requires patience, yes. And if you win/lose/win/lose it can get stiff (hence you need to de aware when you are in this "loop" and wait till two consecutive wins, not that usual, but it can happen every once in a while).

Another factor to my sustained wins is the fact that I DO NOT PLAY THIS CANCELLATION AS MY MAIN SYSTEM. I only do it with a very specific win target. This is one system I use for my "RECOVERY" stage. In my whole strategy I use some systems for the PRODUCTION stage, and some others for recovery.

Recovery is -well-, recovery, meaning I don't play it as main bet. Continuous play with this cancellation system gets discarded, but as a tool to recoup some units it fits perfectly. I can erode casino's bankroll winning with other systems and then if a production's stage system fails, I will use the cancellation in order to recoup. Psychologically it would be exhaustive to have to grind each and every bet. But as I've learned, every system is a TOOL; you need to know WHEN to use it.

Nothing can hold winning consecutively forever, they key is having several systems to use to get those casino units in a bigger proportion that what is expected to be lost when the massive bankroll fails. This can be considered as "buying time" for the inevitable event (losing), but the main target is to win more than you lose, getting those +1's is relatively easy when you cover loads of numbers, but due to the minimal recovery ratio, without rising bets on those systems you will never take back losses unless very lucky. I avoid raising when covering a lot of numbers (like 30 or 33... anything more than 24 numbers = no raise).

There are ways of covering loads of numbers without playing 30+ units, such as playing 5 lines, 11 streets... so far I have achieved winning with that and recovering without losing my massive bankroll (I've been in the green for MONTHS now).  If I were to use the cancellation system as my base bet continuously, I think it will sink eventually, but since I only play it scarcely, roulette must synchronize the losing sequence with the time I am playing in order to get me.

Continuous play is your free ticket to "eating" all of the dispersion. If one event makes you lose, continuous play makes you experience it the very moment it comes. You need to make things harder for the wheel to have your units. If you play a system intermittently, roulette needs to synchronize that system's losing event with the time you are playing (big point to your favor), not just making it come having you waiting for it continuously spin after spin.

Again, my PRODUCTION-stage systems cover loads of numbers so they won't lose that frequent, i.e.: using five lines to cover 30 numbers with only 5 units; if I lose, instead of rising immensely in order to recoup using five lines, I will try to recoup those -5 units with this cancellation which is not a crazy way; indeed, it gives me an exact win-goal to reach thus limiting the number of series I have to cancel at any given time and overall suits better than rising and rising using a system which cover more numbers but has less return. I then enjoy the best of both worlds: covering plenty of numbers at production with the consequent usual winnings and a defined and clear unit-goal in recovery to consider it as a mini-session with a relatively low risk if things if things do regular (Targetting 5 units with a 2000-unit backup is achievable and makes sense to me).

When I'm not teasing the luck with the even chances, I like precisely this combination: PRODUCTION stage covering plenty of numbers (not necessarily straight numbers, I find myself using less units with lines and streets to cover the same amount of numbers) and a RECOVERY stage with a massive bankroll system which I know will put up a big fight to the casino. Of course, I mean a massive bankroll managed properly, sensitive to winning/losing streaks, and not requiring one to be betting like a robot. (For instance, a martingale is a system requiring a massive bankroll but sucks).
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In my humble opinion, the Key to sustained success in roulette is this:
– Lose as least as possible when wins are not coming.
– Skip continuous play and its associated bankroll-eating consecutive loses (Use virtual play on consecutive loses).
– Try to win the MOST when consecutive wins are coming. See your stop-win as a safe harbor for your units, but if you spot yourself if a winning situation, by all means risk some leftover units till the favorable winning trend ends (not hard to spot when current winning trend ends, if you are betting on something and you start losing consecutive bets, it did).

Remember this: Do not limit winning, limit losing.

Have a nice day. Comments/Questions are welcome.
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  UPDATE:
____________

After two consecutive losses, you start what I call: "subtract and distribute".

If you lose two times in a row, you start subtracting 50% from the first element in the series (the one you are using to calculate the units you are betting, the LEFTMOST) and distribute it the most to the RIGHT as you can. This way if 3 or more consecutive losses come, you are always betting 50% less and less, till you reach betting an imaginary zero (0), and only resume when one win comes. THIS IS CRUCIAL. Otherwise you can get milked by betting the same amount as appears on the first element of the series when experiencing one of those heavy losses days.

YOU SHOULD ALWAYS BET LESS WHEN LOSING. Till you get to bet nothing if the losing streak goes on...

[admin]

This comes derivate to some talk to my friend Arteinvivo:



I go to the casino and win win win, or just lose, a bit, or I break even and get "the look" for me being there lots of time and just breaking even or losing very little... The key is patience.

Roulette don't have to be a bad experience to get one to the poor's house. Martingale-like systems are simply out of context.

Also a realistic approach of what is going on at the table can be obtained by tracking.

Sometimes I take a lose gladly, in order to protect from biggest, irrecuperable loses.

Let's say I'm +60, my target is 100.

I lost using 5 lines, now enter the huge bankroll.

I'm getting a session from hell, I lose no matter what I do ( there are some days in which you kind of think the ball must be magnetized with a karma-cop handling the magnet ).

This strategy with "virtual bets" included saves quite a lot of units, but let's say that even like that, I get a win/lose/win/lose.

No matter what I do consecutive wins are not coming.

I've been grinding for hours. Numbers at the serie are out of control:

10 10 16 16 20 20 = -92

I was +60 from original bankroll's starting point. Serie is -92.

-92 +60 = -32

It's 2 a.m. I am feeling sleepy and dizzy: I'll take it. And that's a session from hell.

Next day, I recoup the 32 units.

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Another example.

Let's say I have had a sesison from the 9th circle of hell.

I have been marathonically grinding for the worst consecutive bets ever. NO matter what I do, I just can't get to close the serie. Already tried several times, the units are high, last item to cancel is:
38

I drop it. I won't risk getting a serie like:
38 38 38

So I just assume losing those 38 units.

As you said: common sense.
________________

Since in my humble experience, if you are regularly lucky, sessions from hell do NOT occur often. I prefer to quit even if I haven't closed the serie. I make a balance if I have been up and if I am actually not losing that much then I assume it.

Even if I am getting really bad, since I bet the min. leftmost unit always, getting the numbers on the serie past 20 is relatively rare. Therefore sessions from hell are not a biggie. Mind you.

I'll take losing PART of the bankroll rather than all of it: common sense.

Losing sometimes in order to protect my bankroll makes sense. "We are not betting robots, we do not need to deplete till last unit of our bankroll to call it quit".

[admin]

This one comes from an exchange with Lohro:

Lohro wrote:
I have probably skipped over this part, but what is the current system you are using?

Answer:
Lohnro, I try to avoid using the same stiff criterion or system every spin, session after session. It is bound to fail in my opinion.

Actually, my "main" system is the one which is getting the best streaks for the moment.

I like tracking several systems for production and also several systems for recovery. I simply try to "jump in".

I DO NOT PLAY THIS CANCELLATION AS MY MAIN SYSTEM, this is a "backup", secondary or RECOVERY one.

Now, regarding to what is my STRATEGY, you already know:
- PRODUCTION: flat betting several locations like 5 lines (covering a lot of numbers)
- RECOVERY: 2 Columns/Dozens using this cancellation.

[djroulette]

hi guys

just wondering what you thought about using this one on the ec's??? i am currently looking at a way to involve a solid ec game to compliment the lw's when they are not going to plan.

many thanks

dj

[TwoCatSam]

dj

Love that kitty!  Is he wearing a letter jacket?

Anyway, one thing you and everyone should know about the Leftmost software--if you use it, be prepared for rapid, upward swings.  Since you always cancel the little numbers at the left, the large ones at the right zoom upward with a loosing streak.  Not to say it won't work--you just need nerves of steel and a large BR to ride out the bad runs.

Sam

[TwoCatSam]

John

Seems you and I will never agree on this, so I choose to drop it.

Sam

[TwoCatSam]

John

If you are referring to the Leftmost software Victor wrote, I can assure it takes an upswing greater than the Split Martingale.  I tested this software over hundreds of spins about a year or so ago.

Yes, you can prolong betting large; you can split the line any number of times.  But if you do when you get a run of wins they will be canceling little bets not the larger ones.  This will throw the whole scheme off.

If the wheel produces anything close to a 50/50 proportion of EC hits, the Split Martingale will work!  And the Leftmost software will work, also, but at the end you will have a larger bet to clear the line.

But this is my take on the subject.  I always allow that I could be wrong, but I distinctly remember the software--still have it--and what it did. 

Sam

[TwoCatSam]

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